Milam Glacier - a trek that went sour for me

A Trek gone sour courtesy Toyota Innova bucket seats

My long time friend Mr. Prakash C. Jha retired from a very senior position is an avid traveller to mountains. He has trekked many tough areas as well. He is more interested in natural serene beauty found in the mountains and we do have many in India where some are really tough while rest are more comfortable. Though my childhood has been spent in once upon a beautiful mountain town - Mussoorie - in a boarding school where we were so free in sliding down slopes or climbing heights to the town in the nights while bunking school. Of course bunking is with out permission and knowledge of the headmaster, teachers, or night watchman. Wow that was one great time though we cribbed during that period. Nostalgic memories somehow get laced with heavy layer of honey as we look back four plus decades back.

 

I was going through my contents of my laptop and came across some text I had jotted together on some pad about this trip to Milam Glacier in Kumaon region of Uttara Khund and had composed the matter being posted on return. I hoped to add it to my blog at that time but somehow it just remained unfinished. One finds many excuses of having been busy with work but most times, I can add no comments about others, I do get busy with lazy mode of life. Perhaps I do keep lingering things without finishing.

I need to find the rest of the scribbled notes at least I feel this should be posted to keep the habit of blogging alive and I can always add later to this post or may be it will give me another opportunity to sit down to add a new post to this blog. 

Milam Glacier, Kumaon Trekking with Mr. P. C. Jha ji from 16th May to 27th May 2012

Trek route: Last point of motor able road is about 10 kilometres from Munsiari town, the road beyond is under construction. Lillam > Bogdiar > Rilkot > Martoli > Burphu > Milam

14-05-2012

Arrived late evening from Mussoorie by road after a nice get together with old students. For a change spouses were there except for 2 friends. Travel to Kumaon for a trek with Prakash ji was finalised while I was in Mussoorie. The train tickets had already been purchased by him for the night of 16^th May.

15-05-2012

I met Jha sahib around noon time to cross check what was needed. He already has a gear set for trekking so had a first hand look at his stuff. He also wanted me to check if he required any other accessory for his camera. Additional storage card and a battery for the camera was ordered for safety by both of us. These were ordered and were to be collected by Jha sahib's driver the next day.

The camera was bought in consultation with me. To enhance his familiarity with a DSLR and photography we were making this trip. It is one of the best ways to enhance skills of photography.

I have not gone on such a trek before so I had to buy the requisite gear. I targeted Sarojini Nagar Market as the best compact place to look for a bag pack, sleeping bag, gloves, monkey cap and appropriate pair of shoes. It was the right decision to make my first attempt here before going in search of these in other markets, time at hand was very short, just another day at hand before catching the night train.

Its hot in Delhi so woollens are difficult to buy, being off season. My first preference was to buy a sleeping bag and back pack rest could be easily be found in the house or bought even in Kumaon. I got a back pack and after a great search I could get a sleeping bag as well. Bought me a two pairs of woollen tight inner leggings.

I put everything one place and found suit case a better option before packing in the bag. I do not know how back pack travellers make it with such a bag where to get a thing from the bottom it has to be emptied first to reach it. I did see a back pack that opened like a suitcase but it was small. The quality was also not very good, but in such a short notice I feel it was fine.

After the fiasco of no Vodafone signals in Ladhak where BSNL was working I thought of going for a pre-paid connection.

16-05-2012

I checked up my photography equipment put them in a small backpack that I usually use when not wanting to carry my camera bag. It got stuffed so much that I had to empty my laptop bag and put all the things in it. I did not want to carry my Mac Pro Book its heavy and it was taking a grave risk taking on a trek. I decided to take my wife's 10” laptop. It was only to off load my storage cards and if net could be accessed using my data card.

The phone did not get activated so had to rush to the guy and got it activated just before leaving for the railway station. I have never traveled much from Old Delhi Railway Station as most trains leave from New Delhi. There is utter confusion with so many verges closed. We had to take a u-turn from the extreme end. The place is free for all. There were just tourist buses and tourist buses haphazardly parked on both sides of the road. The entry to the station was not visible though

Train: Ranikhet Express - Delhi - Kathgodam distance 278 kms.

Departure: 16th May, 2012 at 22:40 Old Delhi Station Platform 11, IInd Tier AC Coach A1 sleepers 13 & 15 (lower berths)

Reached Kathgodam (KGM) at 06:30 hours in the morning of 17th, about 1 1/2 hours late from scheduled time.

17-05-2012

Received by ITBP personals at Kathgodam railways station and took us to their transit camp that was very near to the railway station. We were supposed to freshen up after a night train journey before we proceeded for end destination Munsiyari. There were no room numbers but names like Lipulekh Room that I got to freshen up. After a nice bath we went down to the dining area for a nice breakfast. It took a while for the breakfast to be served as on checking both were very new in their posting both had no kitchen experience. This also delayed our departure.

There was some taxi problem as the taxi fellow sent a new vehicle that was with out registration number. Another Toyota Innova with two passenger seats in the back. Most uncomfortable seats in the vehicle. These seats make me stiff on a long journey. During my Mumbai - Shirdi - Mahabaleshwar trip, my body was sour and stiff by the time I reached Mahabaleshwar. I could hardly walk, it was so bad.

We started for Pithoragarh at 08:00 hours, our next stop, which is about 217 kms and reached the camp at 16:30 hours. The road was not in a very good condition. There hardly enough rains in the region that Bhimtal was partly dry is drove past it.

We stayed over night. The room I stayed was named Dharma. ITBP 14t Battalion was in charge of this place. This was another well furnished room. These guest houses are made for transiting officers.

On the way to Munsiyari we stopped at a temple of Shri Golu Maharaj in Chitai. It is believed that wishes get fulfilled. The main area has a small inset of a figure in the wall. There is no statue as we generally found in temples. The most unique feature of the sacred place is that people tie brass bells and come to untie when their wish is fulfilled. People write their problems on plain paper and also on stamp paper seeking help. The area and passages are filled up with brass bells and bells of various sizes and weight. The bells costed Rs. 500/- per kilo. I did buy a book on this temple and why it is called Lord of Justice. 

There was a dedicated section where weddings were solemnised. People find it very auspicious to be able to get married in this temple. There is so much of faith in this temple that can be made out from the thousands of brass bells of assorted sizes tied along with paper request/prayers to solve problems of the believers. There was one such wedding that I believe had got over very short while back.

A very unique temple I can just say. I too had a brass bell tied to bring me luck from the troubles I was going through those days.

18-05-2012

On 18th I got up at 05:00 hours as we planned to drive to Munsiari as early as possible after breakfast. Munsiyari is about 125 kms from Pithoragarh. By 07:00 hours we started for Munsiyari, and reached around 12:45 hours.

The setup of the camp was again great that over looked the valley giving a clear view of the snow peaked mountain range. The room windows faced the Punchachuli range of snow covered mountains. The weather was not clear remained foggy all through the way. There was heavy rainfall for rest of the day and night. Since it had got cold I took out the jacket of my nephew from Vienna that my wife had packed without bothering to take out the ones I used to wear. When I put it on I was shocked I could not fit into it. Being peak summer time I could not find me a monkey cap and gloves in Delhi.

We were introduced to Mr. Kundan Singh ITBP contractor of mules transportation of goods to remote border posts. So he helped me buy the warm clothing much expensive than Delhi it was but natural to be expensive.

19-05-2012

We had to really start for the trek as early as possible to make the best use of day light to cover the distances between ITBP posts where all arrangements over night boarding and lodging had been planned. This area has good wild life like bears and panthers.

The weather a day before was wet and was slightly cool. This coolness was there in the morning but no rains. Surely rains would have been very bad. With the possibility of it being cold at any given distance I put on the warm inners, full sleeves sweater and the jacket. There was excitement as I was formally going for a trek for the first time in last 30 to 40 years. During the school time in Mussoorie, we managed to go long distances in very short times, but today it was not a body a of young youth but a body of a 60 plus years guy.

Fortunately we had a nice sunny morning though far off it was not very clear. I had a dummy run of a possible panorama shot hoping for a clear day with blue skies on return from the trek to shoot the huge Panchachuli range. I did take a few images.

Since I was up before sunrise I was looking for the first rays hitting it basically looking at the golden hour ambience, which to my great disappointment there was no trace of it. The sky was not very clear so view of Panchachuli mountain range with snow peaks was not very clear. I was not aware that the fires are set up by people or pine dry needles catch fire through out the dry season of summers and clear blue sky is hard to find during this period.

Around 07:00 hours we had our breakfast. It was more like a lunch with dal, vegetables and roti. I have never had such a breakfast in my life, but understand we had to since there would be nothing available on the way till the first stop Lillum Post.

Mr. Kundan Singh already there before we sat down for breakfast with his Mahindra Xylo and our luggage was packed in the back of the vehicle. We had a few group photographs before leaving. Mr. Harish (Havaldar) was assigned to accompany us till Milam and back to Munsiari. He was also conversant with the route, as we were informed.

Mr. Kundan Singh drove us to the last point a vehicle could reach. The road was under construction beyond this point. Two of his porters were waiting and they arranged our stuff to be tied to carry on their backs. Besides our luggage there were provisions for the posts. There were 2 carton boxes, one contained 4 chickens and another I believe had some bedsheets and towels. These two cartons were creating some problem as these could not be tied along with rest of our bags. I had bought me a rucksack and a sleeping bag. The straps on top of the rucksack were too short to tie the sleeping bag. How people save on little lengths but create problems for their clients. I had hung it around to where it was better but this also created problems in properly tying up to be carried by the porters. When every thing looked fine we started climbing down the hill. The porters and pony were all organised by Mr. Kundan as he has a team, it is his main job as a contractor to transport goods for the ITBP's various out posts on the border.

Climbing down was not very easy with steep rocky steps and to top it wet leaves from the heavy rains. A nice combination to make one slip quite a distance on one's back. The foliage very was dense. I picked a up branch that looked good enough to be used as a walking stick. I plucked out small branches as best as possible to make it smooth. Though a was a bit heavy but it was a good support. We reached down to the mountain river, where a pony was waiting as one was arranged in case required to ride. Again there was some re-organisation of the back pack of the porters. The sun was out and it had become quite warm. I removed my jacket as it was hot for it. Because of my silliness I was clothed for Greenland and removing my jacket did not help much.  There was a small make shift bridge made of logs, branches, a net and some gravel put on it on a point where the river had least water. I would say it was about 8 to 10 paces in length.

Somehow I started feeling a little uncomfortable as we walked. I am sure the Innova seats discomfort must have been showing up with my body getting stiff. I had heavy breathing as I was climbing down, not very natural. All this made me feel that I will not be able to make it the whole way, even if I did I would be massively slow, very slow. When such feelings start sizzling in the mind, the courage gets lost. It was happening to me, so very unfortunate.

As we walked the route went up and down, quite normal for mountains. There were areas where landslides had taken place, the path was very narrow and dangerous. We had to be very careful as a fall would be a smooth one till the base of the fast flowing river. There were areas where it was rough because of the ongoing road construction project where they push all the earth and stones down wards.

The extra inner woollen clothing was also responsible for my discomfort. In the hindsight I feel I should have taken off the warm inners, that perhaps would have made me comfortable and relaxed. At many places I felt I should calm down my nerves by making some distance sitting on the pony, but whenever I spoke to the pony owner he said it was not a safe path riding the pony. If the path was not good enough for the pony riding someone could have suggested so and we could made some savings. I got a chance to ride the pony for hardly a furlong or so. The guy was holding the reins about 7 to 8 feet long rope away from the pony. At a turning there was a difference in the stone path and its side. The pony got down to the lower part of the path bringing my face into a thorny bush. I tried saving myself and fell  down. Pony not being of good height my feet were nearly touching the ground so no big damage was done to me. I was of course thoroughly shaken up. Lucky it was not on the downside of the mountain as I would have landed deep down in the river.

 My camera hung from my shoulders, lucky no damage to me and my camera. Mr. Harish who was walking close to me was quickly by my side helping me to get and stabilise myself. Also he took care that the hooves of the pony may not hurt me in this mix up. He did give his mind to the pony guy for being extremely careless. Well that was the last I sat on the pony. This side of Uttara Khund there is no pilgrimage points so there is hardly any pony for people. These ponies are used for transporting goods. Pony guys as a habit walk at a distance or even not hold the reins of the pony.

There was an internal shake in the body that was good enough to trigger some back ache, not severe but I did feel I may not remain comfortable for long. My worst fear was not to get that slip disc I suffer for quite frequently. If that would have happened I am sure none of us would know how to tackle the situation. How would I be carried back to the point where a vehicle could come and how would I walk all the distance back. Then that steep climb would be a nightmare. All these thoughts were engrossing my mind. I stopped seeing pictures to capture with my camera. Something I came specially for, I could not see frames that was really unfortunate. For me the whole trip seemed to go down the drain.

Did I miscalculate my endurance strength?

After this fall I was looking forward to reaching the ITBP camp, but it looked very far from there. People who live and cover distances on a regular basis feel the distance is not much, the path is quite comfortable. Each time I asked Mr. Harish he would just say we are there. I am sure a quick walker like him was boringly tied with a person like me who was slow.

We reached a point where a team from Lillam post awaited us with tea and biscuits. I asked others to walk ahead and continue further as I was sure I will not be able to make it to complete the whole route of the trek. My slowness would also compromise on the planned trek. Momin stayed back with me and we walked leisurely and he always telling me take small steps as the legs do not get over stretched bringing discomfort. Habits die hard, the moment I took a long stride he would point it out. I am not sure what scenics were there, real pity all this discomfort took over my sensibilities and saw no frames. I do not remember any thing. I had handed my camera to Mr. Harish for safety sake.

Just a few paces we reached this hub I got one of my life's worst cramps. I do get cramps in one or the other legs or feet now and then when sleeping or walking bare feet in water, but nothing like this cramp I have ever had in my life before. Both my legs thighs and toes cramped up. Nerves in both my thighs pained as if some one was pulling them out. I started feeling some numbness in my lower back. I could not stand up despite Momin helping me stay up. He called up the guys sitting upstairs to give a hand to support me. Somehow with their help I managed to reach up the area of the hub. People cleared the bench for me to lie down. Someone brought some balm on a piece of paper, later got to know he was the postmaster. I took off the sweater, shirt and the inner full sleeves vest. All my clothes had gone wet from heavy sweating. Some balm was rubbed on my back, the legs, feet and toes. One could see the fingers stiff and looked de-shaped from cramps. I am sure I must have there for a good hour. I had already asked my friend to continue further as I would not be able to make it further. I did not want his trip wasted because of me. I had to take rest to revive myself from the cramps.

Then someone gave me a light weight bamboo walking stick, telling me the one I had was heavy and it was not good. Later I came to know he was the shop owner fondly called 'Chachu' (Uncle). The hub was owned by him. This place had a hotel (two hardboard beds with straws), dhaba, Chachu's well  stocked store, Post Office, Ration Shop, Government Doctor (Homeopathy) & residence of a headmaster.

The hotel owner brought some lemon with salt in warm water to help me regain from dehydration. When I felt comfortable I sat down relaxed my legs by with some exercise. I had taken off the woollen socks. There is no doubt I was over clothed and had invited the cramps on very warm day. We started for the camp that was quite a distance up, it looked like it was still miles away. Prompts of small steps, stopping after small distances made me cover the distance to the post. First thing I did in the room was to reduce the clothing. The bags had already reached the camp much ahead, so took out Voilini ointment to apply on the effected portions. I also took a pain killer tablet to help me relax. I lay down and rested a while. I realised that my camera was not there, as I had requested Mr. Harish to carry it for me lest due to any fall I damage it. There were no phone signals. They had a good one hour start, so I could also not request someone to get it back for me. The CO of the post Mr. Shyam Singh Negi (Havaldar) sent a message to the next post to arrange to send back my camera. My fears of it getting damaged in case of rains or mishandling more than losing it. I knew it was secure.

My friend did notice Mr. Harish carrying it but did not realise it was mine as today owning a good camera is not difficult for those who are passionate about photography. Since Jha ji was out with camera for first time thought Mr. Harish could be of help in guiding with photography. The message was already there to send back the camera. He told Mr. Harish that he should not have carried it with him, should have left it behind with my luggage. But I am sure with the confusion there may have been an error of judgement. Two days later I got my camera back. There is a regular to and fro movement of porters. It was shocking to see the filter on the lens full of finger prints. It is good people are suggested to have a filter on the lens firstly to cut ultra violet content of light additionally helping save the lens and its coating from getting damaged. Filters are cheap and can be replaced, but a damaged lens can hurt the pocket pretty very hard. My first response was check functioning of the camera. I did a few quick shots to see if things were fine. The next day I saw body paint damage luckily no dents. There were a few scratch marks on the glass screen. My camera resale value got depleted. I curse myself why I gave it at all to him? I can just have to maintain my equilibrium by realising what was to happen it happened that none can avoid.

At Lillam post we had plans for lunch and then to proceed further. My friend and his team had their lunch that was ready to continue to next post before it got dark. The post was manned by 4 personals. Advance notice is given in case someone is visiting as food is prepared enough for the staff at the post. There is just one room for officers or guests. There is a hall that could accommodate quite a number of people. This being a transit post besides a check post to record permits issued to tourists helping to keep track of outside people visiting the border region.

Momin was kind enough to rub ointment on my back where my hands could not reach. He would come very often asking about my welfare. It was like my care was deputed to him by the CO. All the personals were very warm and looked after me in a big way. Someone or the other would come up to chat lest I felt lonely. I did walk around, sit with them and stay in the room. I feel greatly obliged by their warmth and helping me get back to walking comfortably.

It did rain quite a few times, even during the nights.

My friend did not reach the next post of Bogdiar. Later came to know the guide made him stop at a hotel still quite away from the post. Surely he would not have made it to the post that evening, but he misinformed that after this there was no other place to stay for the night. There was one more, having stayed there would have saved a lot of time. This area has its share of wild animals like leopards (even snow leopards), bears, panthers, besides deer, etc.

20-05-2012

I was careful all the day not straining at all. I would rub ointment every two to three hours to help me relax. The pain was still there in full strength but cramps did not happen again. It takes time for the pain to subside after a bout of cramps.

There were some people who stayed over night. One was an IIT Geology research student Mr. Nirmalo Chatterjee along with his assistant. He had plans to stay at his destination point for a longer duration. It was quite nice to have chatted for long as there was nothing else to do.

The mobile signals are pretty bad in border regions. After my trip to Ladhak where Vodafone connection outside Leh was zero and BSNL worked in very large areas, I thought of taking a pre-paid BSNL connection to remain in touch in case Vodafone could not be used. This side I got to know Idea has better connectivity than BSNL. Quite confusing which company mobile connection to have in these remote areas?

The signals in both carriers fluctuated massively. There were certain spots where there was signal strength but even here it used to fade out. The phone batteries got exhausted pretty fast as searching for the signal drained its powers.

It is difficult to take a break from everything after being so used to connectivity.The peace at a remote place away from hectic life of a city is always pleasing for a short time only. With nothing to do like reading, walking out for photography it gets boring after a while. How long can one sleep or lie in bed? How long can one sit around doing nothing? True if there is some activity, the time passes with out any hassles and staying away in a remote place is really good.

I had about 5 missed calls from an international number. It was an unknown number, tried to call back but could not go through. Memory loss!! I am not sure if I called again at night or got a call, any way its not a big issue unless the charges add to my phone bill but again not a big issue. I do have a habit of returning the calls irrespective of costs involved.

It was Nivedita a photography student who had contacted me long time back asking me for my advise. I try to help people to the best of my knowledge in as simple a way as possible never trying to discourage the newbee. She informed she was in Germany doing internship with a photographer and he has not been appreciative of her street photography results. She feels some very ordinary work of other intern was well accepted by him. Well there is always a cultural difference. The kind of work liked in India is very different. The work has to be very sharp as we see but anything creative than that is hardly appreciative. Here it is more colour, very saturated colours are liked. In the continent there is still a strong liking for Black & White work and the content or story of the image is important. So had to guide her to look up the work of other photographers, understand and to really relearn her way of seeing things as per them. But surely with everything new to her she would still seeing a lot differently and capturing than them. That she should work more in Black & White. I had requested her to share her work so that better inputs can be given to the best of my knowledge. Each country each region will surely have visual differences when given a common object to photograph. There would be different results specially in use of light and its recording as a result.

21-05-2012

Another similar day as the previous one with nothing exciting. The post is quite low down the mountains though it is 1716 meters from sea level. A little portion of snow clad mountain was visible behind the opposite hills of the camp. Always looked for some colors during the golden hours, but as the luck would be I never got to see it till the day I was there. As usual an early morning where Momin would come knocking the door for tea.

A day before they all enquired if drink and eat non-veg, to which I said just a casually drinker but do take non-veg. I did not take on Tuesdays. Then in the morning he announced they would be cooking chicken. I told him let it live. One had died a day before I think. I was told there is a cat that would eat it off, so before it became its meal. The chicken spent a lot of time in my room. I too felt bad I rarely eaten one slaughtered fresh.

In the after noon I took my chances to take a walk to see how I felt walking up. They suggested to walk up to a hotel/dhaba not very far that was also a comfortable distance to climb. I did make it very comfortably a very satisfying feeling on reaching there. There was a fall some distance further did not take my chances. Also it was a bit cloudy and possibility of rain was quite there. It had been raining since my arrival here in spells. Rushing for cover, there was hardly any cover, was not possible and taking chances with the camera getting wet was also not very prudent.

Rest of the guys went down to start with the procedure with the chicken for the meal. On reaching back they were in the process of cleaning. The preparation was good and tasty. Some portions they cooked as a snack and rest with little curry. What ever quantity of rum the CO had he served. It was a nice evening and dinner.

22-05-2012

Today I got up at 06:00 hours in the morning. I was feeling a slight twitch in right side of the back. They boiled some water on hearth out side for me to take a bath. It was very relaxing after the bath. They have a solar geyser that required re-plumbing after connections were to release sand that had settled down. The water source is a natural source where some residue is always there. It needs to be syphoned off after a certain period.

There seems to be a tiff between the villagers and the staff at the post. It is more a misunderstanding. To charge mobiles they come down as there is no electricity. There are times when the inverter does not have enough charge or no charge. But these villagers think the staff does it on purpose. Out door lighting all had solar panels, but most had their batteries dead, so none were working. The villagers would plug their pipe line to block water. These guys would have to go up all the way to unplug the pipes.

During these days there was a change of guard in the various posts. Fresh people were replacing the old ones whose tenure was over. These are non family posts where they are totally cut off from the rest of the world. There are no mobile signals, no electricity and provisions are supplied on routine basis with no great choice. Distances between the posts is quite a lot and all on foot. Medical attention is bare minimum. At least I can say about till Lillam, the maximum I could reach.

I had a pleasure to meet ACO Mr. Abhishek Suhkla who was returning from the front post. He stopped for lunch and rest before proceeding further to Munsiari. He was away from all for the last 6 months. The mobile got activated, and it was quite a relief getting connected again. I am sure they may have some provisions of connecting to family besides the normal internal system of the force. He was accompanied by Mr. Negi (Havildar), well for the day we had two Negi in the camp with the same rank. Another Havildar Mr. Kamlesh had arrived to relieve Mr. Shyam Singh Negi.

A few hours after ACO left for Munsiari, I along with Momin and Mr. Negi left to go down to the hub of activity. This is one of the only well established place for provisions for villagers far and wide even village population across the river . This hub consists of a Dhaba, a place to stay where wooden beds create a platform having some dry grass cover with not so clean bed sheets/cloth, a well stocked shop, Post Office of Lillam, government ration shop, a homeopathy dispensary on a floor above it, 2 to 3 rooms. One served as a room for the headmaster/principal of a intermediate school/college on the hill across the river. I trust the owner of the shop also stays there. This place is again a relaxing point for people going further towards Milam side.

Today it was a ration day when villagers had come to buy their ration. The place was very active with ladies from the villages. It was all ladies and no men who had come to buy the ration. These ladies are very hard working and can carry quite a weight.

I sat down on the bench there taking some photographs of the activity, portraits of people busy with their buying of provisions. There was a quiet shy gentleman sitting on the bench who was surely not a local. People were talking to him for medical problems. I asked him if he was a doctor. We chatted for quite a while. I got to know his clinic was above the shop, so I was interested to see his place of work. We went up to his place. It was a very smallish room, an all-in-one room. A cupboard as we enter on the left, on the right was a bed where at its end he had his personal stuff steeped on the floor, beside the cup board was his working desk, near the window there was some small table or box that again had lots of bottles of medicine. The ceiling had some Rexene but it did not cover it fully. Nearly half of the ceiling was bare. The light had got quite low outside for me to take photographs. Still I am gripped in the old photography school avoiding to use higher ISOs then 400 ISO despite the digital camera having ISOs to 3200 or more. I still fear the noise that comes loaded with higher ISOs. I asked if I could come again to shoot some pictures of his dispensary.

He himself is a keen photographer owning a Nikon camera with assorted lenses some good enough for birds and wild life. He had brought along with him on his very posting. Every one surely expects some basic amenities in government accommodations, but here there was none. It seems to be a punishment posting. A dispensary of good 20 plus years does have zero facilities and amenities for a qualified homeopathy doctor. He had to leave it back home as there being no electricity, he could not charge the batteries. He could not use a lap top again for the same reasons. He brought along a solar lamp that he used for charging his mobile phone.

The BJP government had had brought some service rules where a tenure was fixed for 2 years. The remotely placed staff would be replaced by those from the city. The Congress government changed it all. They replaced it with a lose system. Now he can not expected to posted to another family kind posting. We know ugly face of corruption that is haunting each and one of the citizens of India except those who are well connected. We also know there is lots of money involved in recruitments and choice postings. Its a reality that judiciary may not accept unless proved. How can a well oiled system ever make it possible to get a proof.

He said even if he resorts to make payment to get posted out to some habitable city, and any one being posted is able to pay more to avoid the posting then his money is also lost. It is a sad situation. Surely there are places where the government can not provide but at least the basics can be provided to make life easier. This is why the Maoist are getting a hold in remote areas where the population has been deprived of basic amenities by way of proper food supplies, vegetables, proper educational and medical facilities, etc.

He also mentioned that in extreme emergencies like pains etc. he can not even suggest any allopathy medicines even the common ones. Homeopathy does take time to take effect and many come here for pains in the legs or feet. There was a villager sitting there who had some pain in his head and was requesting me to organise medicine for his chronic pain. How could I get any medicines knowing what his problem was, if he had some medicines prescribed by a doctor surely I could buy and post the same for his use. It is a pathetic situation for this remote population. Why can not a allopathy doctor be posted there? Why can not a small medical center be opened along with homeopathy medicines as well? Why everything is centred in the capital of the country or state? This a kind of de-alienation of a population.

There were no fresh vegetables available even in the shop that I feel was well stocked. The camp people did have small patches where they sowed some vegetables. There was a wild plant that they collected to cook as vegetable. I was informed eating it in cold weather it did generate warmth. It is a single stem plant. The harder part of the stem is cut away, rest is cut as per ones choice and cooked. It has no peculiar strong taste that can be of any mention.

Ha ha I have to come back to add after finding my jotted notes.

One thing I vividly remember that on our return all the way we went through thick smoke, pieces of rocks flying, huge trees falling over roads due to man made fire to burn out weeds or natural fire because of dry leaves. Some say people there to increase their cultivable land they burn fires. We were lucky to have pass through without obstructions though a few rocks did hit the car roof.

There were snow clad mountain ranges we could see in far distance, but it was really sad that the pristine beauty of the place could not be recorded due to the smoke/smog. What a pity it was to be there during this summer period but the glacier is accessible during summers only.
Will be adding more... please watch this space

23-05-2012

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28-05-2012