Trip to village Mundhol in Uttrakhund

A sunrise sky line

Village Mundhol/Mundhola (Altitude 648 meters above sea level)

Tehsil: Tuini

Taluka: Chakrata

District: Dehradun

State: Uttarakhund

A visit to an area of Uttrakhund, also known as Dev Bhumi or Land of the Gods, got materialised after an invite to witness an important Pooja by residents of Mundhol took me there with a model friend Bhupinder Inder Pant. We left Delhi taking a Volvo bus of Uttrakhund State Transport from Inter State Bus Terminal, Kashmiri Gate on the 13^th night of December 2014. It was a cold night but once in the bus it was pretty comfortable. We were welcomed in Dehradun around 5ish with chilly winds, heavy showers, thunder and lightening. Lucky we got the local bus in a short time after arrival for Vikasnagar without getting all wet. By the time we reached Vikasnagar it had become clear with some pleasant sunshine. The small bus we got for Tuini was neat and clean though seats were pretty small. The roads are not very wide for normal long buses.

Removing boulders as we moved on the track

All through the way there was hide and seek between sunshine, heavy showers and dense fog. The trip was of roughly six to seven hours. It had been raining in this area since few days causing land slides. The road repair work was underway but due to rains there was no sign of workers seen throughout the trip. Fortunately we had a very sensible driver and a conductor, who had earlier been driving heavy vehicles in the area. They had to stop the bus to remove some boulders or check while taking a dangerous curve. I used to step out to take a few pictures. While previewing the photos at home that I had taken, shivers ran down the spine as it dawned how dangerous was the track in many places.

The left side of the road really had very lose as recorded in the preceding image where the boulder lying on the right side of the bus moved.

Moving ahead to check the road for obstructions.

Giving a pass to other vehicles was again quite alarming.

Droplets on tiny leaves

Scene taken on the way. The play of clouds helped in recording 3D looking compositions.

The play of clouds got me 3D kind of images

A moment foggy on this treacherous track on way to Mundhol from Tuini in MUV 

In moments it became clearer. Silver growth on the head does help getting a good place.

As it is generally in the mountains the weather conditions keep changing quite fast. We had very short spells of sunshine but major part it was either raining or we faced dense fog. As we approached Tuini surprisingly we found good sunshine. Mundhol village is about 20 kilometres uphill. There is no bus service from here to the village. It is only with private MUVs to commute. There is an absolute lack of government commuting options in this area. Overloading is very common here or similar regions. Passenger cabin area is packed with 8 to 9 people instead of 5 including driver. So many are made to sit on the cargo behind while the unlucky ones have to sit on the roof. The travelling fundamentals are totally different to what we know in the city. Despite paying for the full passenger cabin one still has to adjust as the community is small and everyone knows each other. The road was not tarred and it was very slushy and slippery all the way to the village as it drizzled most part of the distance. It must have taken us about one and half hours to reach the village. The path down to the house was very narrow, steep and slippery with no support to hold while going down, ironically both side had barbed wire fencing.

Bhupinder Inder Pant who got an invite from Neeru from Chandigarh to see and experience the puja in her village Mundhol 

We had a very warm welcome from the family with hot tea to help us from the chilly weather. The house was very well updated as we have in city houses. The lady rom Chandigarh who invited maintains the house for her mother. There was just one bathroom but it was quite modern with WC, geyser, washing machine, etc. The kitchen with a hearth with wood fire was the hub of the house and the warmest area. Full floor area was covered with many rugs to sit down. We spent most of the time in the kitchen except when retiring for the night we went to the assigned room. They had very clean beddings for almost for 20 odd people or more.

The hearth in the kitchen attracted all the family members since it was the warmest area.

Neeru and Nisha her younger sister. Neeru's daughter daughter in the red coat

The mother of Neeru, her nephew, her elder sister, Bhupinder and Palvi.

A proud grandmother with her granddaughter

Mother and daughter

Cousin Sisters - Mannat with her cousin

The village was on higher area from the house. If it had been dry maybe we could have ventured out to have a look at the village and see the preparations going on there. Villages are devoid of any street lights as a matter of fact. We did see fresh snow covering the surrounding mountains. It was lovely seeing the snow on surrounding mountains and, of course, capturing the scenes around us. I did venture out next morning to the village and it was tough crossing the road that was covered muddy slush and running rain water.

The village was at a slightly higher altitude. The road where the vehicles are parked was fully slushy with mud and water was flowing down as well. The narrow passage downwards started near where the white car is parked. 

This road was tough to cross to reach the village from we lived. The water flowed down and also down the narrow passage going down next to the dried grass bundle on the left foreground to the house.

Lots of fresh snow on the mountains surrounding the village.

People were busy with lots energy and each face had a glow in expectation of their Devta coming to reside in their village temple after 25 years for a one year stay. They had a community cooking center made in one of the fields where any one could have meals especially those who were busy round the clock in preparations. Lots of sheep must have been sacrificed to please the Devta and the meat went for the village community meals. I saw for the very time skinning of an animal. The enthusiasm never went down because of wet, muddy slushy pathways or roads. Sacrificing animals and even humans date back to pre-historic times to please unknown super powers that people did not understand. In the modern world there has been a campaign and even very strict laws against such sacrifices despite that these still take place especially the animal sacrifices.

The make shift community kitchen covered with flexible plastic sheets that are bulging downwards with rain water.

Food is being served to volunteers as and when they came in. The wooden logs were extensively used to add to make shift arrangements. 

Sacrificing animal and even humans has continued from prehistoric times to please the unknown powers that mankind did not understand. There was a house across the compound where in one stroke a lamb was slaughtered to please the Devta. The young girl could not see it.

Saw this boy hang around with the lamb that was to be sacrificed. He saw it sacrificed. Life goes on I trust. 

The sacrificed lambs are cut pieces for cooking in the common community kitchen.

I had never witnesses skinning of an animal. How times have changed for me. When I was very young visiting Srinagar I saw a chicken being slaughtered for cooking and I did not touch chicken or egg for quite a long time. Here on taking up photography things have changed so drastically that after having capturing some frames after this action I moved on.

It is pretty common around the world that people living in tough regions have believed in the unknown super natural powers giving due respects, are very superstitious and very strictly maintain their rituals. Specially in the mountains, winters is one season when maximum happenings take place as during the good days of the year they are busy with agricultural activities or other work that will help them live through the cold winters. Winters is again the time for them to socialise. It is like ants who work the best days of the year to live through bad weather days.

In celebrity mood in anticipation of Devta coming to the village. The man holding a grey can and disposal glasses is serving locally brewed liquor.

Sunset taken from the Temple area

It is said to help fight the demons villagers prayed for help. One of the villagers had a dream where he was asked to plough his field in the morning where the four Devta and their veer will emerge to help them get rid of the demons. The dream came true.

Steps leading to the temple.

A priest looking out for the arrival of the Devta. I did remain till it got  really dark but the Devta with his disciples moved around to various parts of the village. Hoping I would return back to the house before it got dark, I missed carrying my flashlight lucky to have had a pen that had a LED light bulb fitted in it. Without light it would have been a very muddy affair for me. Lucky to have had little Gollu's company who had been so sweet to take care of me at ever step helping me avoid the muddy slush and slippery areas holding my hands as walked backwards.

One of the Devta being carried by his disciples in the temple compound. There was no way to position at an elevated vantage point since none could on a higher area than the Devta. I have faced a bigger jostling crowd in Maha Kumbh 2013 and this in no way less than it the way people pushed to either have a glimpse of the deity or who wanted to move along the procession. I found a safer position right under staircase of the temple.

Names of Devta:

There are four main Devta, main residence is in Arnol about 20 kilometres from Mundhol

1. Bashik Maharaj
2. Mahasu Maharaj
3. Pabasi Maharaj
4. Chalda Maharaj

They have four Veer / Knights:

1. Shedkuliya ji
2. Kaelu ji
3. Kapila ji
4. Gudaru ji, and
5. Naharsingh ji resides in the village and is also village Kul Dev

The first four Veer who reside with the Devta work on the directions of any one of the Devta. The first three Devta have some injuries so the youngest Devta Chalda Maharaj ji does the travelling and stays in different villages for a day or months or years. No villages know when and where he would travel or how long the stay will be in their midst. For the whole duration of year's the stay of Chalda Maharaj there will puja and celebrations in the village, besides all festivals will be specially celebrated.

Some village elders sitting on the roof of a house. I was searching for a higher altitude for  photographic vantage point. The lady of the house who was in the compound asked to to go up to the top floor but I should remove my foot wear, fair enough. But it was a very short lived opportunity. Since afternoon as the drums and trumpets preceding the procession were heard people waiting thought the Devta was reaching the temple but on the other hand took another route to go to different part of the village. Every one had to come down since no human can remain at a higher altitude of the Devta.

After 25 years Chalda Maharaj ji decided to come and reside in Mundhol village. He was accompanied by another Devta who would return after Chalda Maharaj ji settles down in the village temple. This was a very big occasion for people of the village and people of 150 odd adjoining villages. Villagers from all these villages joined together to welcome the Devta. They set up a community kitchen to feed all who were on the job and even others could have free meals from the kitchen. Two families decided to host the Devta in their houses on their arrival for a day and night stay before the Devta settling down in the temple. These families during the stay honoured Devta by throwing an open house feast for all. On the day Devta has to settle in the temple there is a massive community lunch where all the villages contribute to make it a success.

In the community kitchen meat that was chopped is waiting to be cooked. Those connected as volunteers remain bare footed and had to bathe in cold water for religious reasons. I am sure it must have be very tough going through this ritual, but never found anyone uncomfortable about it.

The villagers who had opted to volunteer to be servers to the Devta had to bathe in cold water and would not wear any shoes or leather products. It is their endurance to be doing so in the very chilly winter days without a whimper or showing to be obliging any one. Some how all religious activities connected to Dev or Devi (Gods and Goddesses) take place in the evenings, for whatever reasons.

The village schools have a distinction of educating many who joined government and private bodies who have risen to very senior and responsible positions.

The rains over the past few days did make the things messy. Bad dangerous roads leading to the village, muddy slippery slush with chilly winds as there was lots of snowfall on the adjoining peaks and mountains. Mundhol does get lots of snowfall but it was a saving grace that it did not get snow but there was enough frost. So many original residents settled far and wide within in India made their way to the village to participate in the celebrations. I heard if rains had not been there many more would have come to the village. I also heard Mundhol village itself has produced many senior officers like IAS, IPS, Income Tax Commissioners, etc. There was a vehicle parked of an IT Commissioner who had his roots in the village.

The beautiful view of the Himalayan Range in the back ground. During the stay there was either foggy or if at all clear sunshine was there but distant mountain range always some fog.

I trust the man in green jacket was the treasurer who kept account of the receipts and spendings on behalf of the 150 odd villages who pooled in money for the community lunch on the day the Devta would be settling down in the temple. This day we had great warm sunshine that helped in a smooth community lunch in the open fields.

Lots of beautiful birds were there and I could capture one with my Tamron 28 - 300 mm lens. Not having much practice in shooting birds, I did miss many opportunities.

 People gathered in the temple compound to receive the Devta to seek his blessings. The people had waited since morning and the Devta came to the compound when it was nearly dark and went on another round of the village. I then decided to call it a day. I realised I had not carried my flash light as I was under the impression that by afternoon I would be back at the house. Luckily I had a pen that had LED light. With young friend Golu who stayed with me throughout this small light helped us back. It was my problem that I could not walk back to the house in dark, I am sure for Golu this would not have been a problem. He cared for  me all the way down guiding me from uneven slushy patches by holding my hand. He is a very loving young boy. As most of the children going to school, they have to walk few kilometres both ways. On my way back to Tuini I was showed the school he went, wow it was quite a distance.

The villagers assembled in the temple compound and waited for the Devta to show up.

The temple compound is jam packed to receive the Devta. It was a dry sunny day.

The villages in India are used to painting their houses in bright bold colours. It is really very interesting to shoot either full houses or frame abstracts. 

One of the villagers taking a rest with a brightly coloured door of a house. The over coat made of rough sheep wool is very warm and helps through minus degrees temperatures during the peak of winters.

This canopy had many bells was leading the procession. It was auspicious to be un

The procession with both Devta reached the compound instead of going up the temple the procession went down to another part of the village. Till very late night we could hear drums and trumpets of the procession, I trust it must have past midnight some time when the Devta must have settled in the temple.

Young ones joined for the local dance and songs. There was no higher spot since it was a taboo to go up to any rooftop. The place was very badly lit, the flash was not enough the reach the distance.  

The children of the house in the crowd

Our last two days we had very good sunshine and was so very pleasant to sit in the sun. The fresh snow had melted quickly when the sun had shown, lucky to have shot pictures when mountains were covered with snow. 

Some foliage 

A majestic tree against a beautiful blue sky

These trees were wonderfully back lit by the setting Sun.

During the day there was a community lunch for the 150 villages. The day had a wonderful warm clear sunshine. The people could relish the lunch. If the wet weather would have continued I am sure the whole event would have been really messed up.

A view of the village and temple from the fields while the village community lunch was going on. 

The people spread out in the fields.

People being served food by young village volunteers.

The wok had mutton preparation

The buckets were filled up from the wok for serving.

It really looked interesting with the steam from the wok. 

People waited in queue for their turn to sit down for the meals.

This went off so smoothly without any kind of a stampede as people waited in queues very patiently with none trying to jump the line. 

As they waited I trust they caught up with the welfare of their families.

One of the schools in the village.

It was time to say adieu to the beautifully warm family who hosted us like we were a part of the family. There more immediate family members as guests. I know there were about 12 children in all. I knew the hosts would not accept any thing from us, what best I could do was buy some goodies from a shop like Frooti, biscuits, chips, chocolates, etc. It was like a full cartoon and on asking I said half of the stuff has air filled packings that has increased the volume. As a habit of mine it is a must to give to children.

Almost all males in the Indian mountain areas are known to be not very hard working. They have alcoholic issues. Women folks can be seen working hard both outside and inside homes be it either getting wood for the hearth, carrying ration from government outlets besides their cooking and maintaining the house.
Nisha, the sister of Neeru (Chandigarh), single handedly managed some 35 odd people visiting and staying the in the house. She is a very very talented lady. She cooked many new dishes for all of us. One dish of rice she made was with out a single drop of any cooking oil. May God bless her and her children with a promising future. 

Mannat with her mother Nisha

Nisha with her son Golu. A wonderful child who cared for me like anything. He always accompanied me caring that I do not misstep any where. He was a great company treating me like a grandfather. So very wonderful of him. All children were caring but he stuck to my side. 

Nisha with both her boys.

The house we stayed.

Granny, the head of the family. Only she, Nisha her children (one girl Mannat and two boys) stay in the village house throughout the year tending to their apple orchard and fields.

The family. The very young boy in pink T-shirt youngest grandson and he was maternal uncle for some who were older in age

Bhupinder Inder Pant with the family

I joined the group photo with the family.

This is the MUV we travelled from Tuini to Mundhol and also drove our way back to Vikasnagar from Tuini.

MUV we came was called by the hosts to take us down to Tuini, where from we had to take a bus back to Vikasnagar and Dehradun. On reaching Tuini a little late we found ourselves stranded as buses and MUVs leave before noon time. Some how we persuaded the same MUV owner to take us to Vikasnagar, after a bit of haggling with the price as well he agreed. He had to take his son for some medical check up in Vikasnagar but played as if he was obliging us. I think we got the last bus to Inter State Bus, Dehradun. We opted for the last Volvo bus for Delhi so that we reached at some humanly time in the morning. The dense fog was a part of the whole journey to Delhi. Again it was a spine chilling ride. Both ways we were continuously on the road with out any rest till our destinations reached.

Apple orchard in off season being used as cricket filed.

Mundhol is close to Himachal Pradesh border and this whole range is an apple region. Lots of apple tree orchards are here. These will glow in pink some where in March with apple flowers. I am sure it must be a beautiful sight and wonderful to be here to spend a few days and perhaps when the fruits are ripe to be harvested. Hopefully, hopefully trips during this period can be materialised. Staying is not an issue as these very warm homely people have insisted that we should come again during these periods.

Camera: Canon 5D Mark II

Lens: Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD
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