A Trek gone sour courtesy Toyota Innova bucket seats
My long time friend Mr. Prakash C. Jha retired from a very senior position is an avid traveller to mountains. He has trekked many tough areas as well. He is more interested in natural serene beauty found in the mountains and we do have many in India where some are really tough while rest are more comfortable. Though my childhood has been spent in once upon a beautiful mountain town - Mussoorie - in a boarding school where we were so free in sliding down slopes or climbing heights to the town in the nights while bunking school. Of course bunking is with out permission and knowledge of the headmaster, teachers, or night watchman. Wow that was one great time though we cribbed during that period. Nostalgic memories somehow get laced with heavy layer of honey as we look back four plus decades back.
I was going through my contents of my laptop and came across some text I had jotted together on some pad about this trip to Milam Glacier in Kumaon region of Uttara Khund and had composed the matter being posted on return. I hoped to add it to my blog at that time but somehow it just remained unfinished. One finds many excuses of having been busy with work but most times, I can add no comments about others, I do get busy with lazy mode of life. Perhaps I do keep lingering things without finishing.
I need to find the rest of the scribbled notes at least I feel this should be posted to keep the habit of blogging alive and I can always add later to this post or may be it will give me another opportunity to sit down to add a new post to this blog.
Milam Glacier, Kumaon Trekking with Mr. P. C. Jha ji from 16th May to 27th May 2012
Trek route: Last
point of motor able road is about 10 kilometres from Munsiari town, the road
beyond is under construction. Lillam > Bogdiar > Rilkot >
Martoli > Burphu > Milam
14-05-2012
Arrived late
evening from Mussoorie by road after a nice get together with old
students. For a change spouses were there except for 2 friends.
Travel to Kumaon for a trek with Prakash ji was finalised while I was
in Mussoorie. The train tickets had already been purchased by him for
the night of 16th May.
15-05-2012
I met Jha sahib
around noon time to cross check what was needed. He already has a
gear set for trekking so had a first hand look at his stuff. He also
wanted me to check if he required any other accessory for his camera.
Additional storage card and a battery for the camera was ordered for
safety by both of us. These were ordered and were to be collected by
Jha sahib's driver the next day.
The camera was
bought in consultation with me. To enhance his familiarity with a
DSLR and photography we were making this trip. It is one of the best
ways to enhance skills of photography.
I have not gone
on such a trek before so I had to buy the requisite gear. I targeted
Sarojini Nagar Market as the best compact place to look for a bag
pack, sleeping bag, gloves, monkey cap and appropriate pair of shoes.
It was the right decision to make my first attempt here before going
in search of these in other markets, time at hand was very short,
just another day at hand before catching the night train.
Its hot in Delhi
so woollens are difficult to buy, being off season. My first
preference was to buy a sleeping bag and back pack rest could be
easily be found in the house or bought even in Kumaon. I got a back
pack and after a great search I could get a sleeping bag as well.
Bought me a two pairs of woollen tight inner leggings.
I put everything
one place and found suit case a better option before packing in the
bag. I do not know how back pack travellers make it with such a bag
where to get a thing from the bottom it has to be emptied first to
reach it. I did see a back pack that opened like a suitcase but it
was small. The quality was also not very good, but in such a short
notice I feel it was fine.
After the fiasco
of no Vodafone signals in Ladhak where BSNL was working I thought of
going for a pre-paid connection.
16-05-2012
I checked up my
photography equipment put them in a small backpack that I usually use
when not wanting to carry my camera bag. It got stuffed so much that
I had to empty my laptop bag and put all the things in it. I did not
want to carry my Mac Pro Book its heavy and it was taking a grave
risk taking on a trek. I decided to take my wife's 10” laptop. It
was only to off load my storage cards and if net could be accessed
using my data card.
The phone did not
get activated so had to rush to the guy and got it activated just
before leaving for the railway station. I have never traveled much
from Old Delhi Railway Station as most trains leave from New Delhi.
There is utter confusion with so many verges closed. We had to take a
u-turn from the extreme end. The place is free for all. There were
just tourist buses and tourist buses haphazardly parked on both sides
of the road. The entry to the station was not visible though
Train: Ranikhet
Express - Delhi - Kathgodam distance 278 kms.
Departure: 16th
May, 2012 at 22:40 Old Delhi Station Platform 11, IInd Tier AC Coach
A1 sleepers 13 & 15 (lower berths)
Reached Kathgodam
(KGM) at 06:30 hours in the morning of 17th, about 1 1/2 hours late
from scheduled time.
17-05-2012
Received by ITBP
personals at Kathgodam railways station and took us to their transit camp that was very near to the railway station. We were supposed to freshen up after a night train journey before we proceeded for end destination Munsiyari. There were no room numbers but names like Lipulekh Room that I got to freshen up. After a nice bath we went down to the dining area for a nice breakfast. It
took a while for the breakfast to be served as on checking both were very new in their posting both had no kitchen experience. This
also delayed our departure.
There was some
taxi problem as the taxi fellow sent a new vehicle that was with out
registration number. Another Toyota Innova with two passenger seats
in the back. Most uncomfortable seats in the vehicle. These seats
make me stiff on a long journey. During my Mumbai - Shirdi -
Mahabaleshwar trip, my body was sour and stiff by the time I reached
Mahabaleshwar. I could hardly walk, it was so bad.
We started for
Pithoragarh at 08:00 hours, our next stop, which is about 217 kms and reached the camp at 16:30 hours. The road was not in a very good condition. There hardly enough rains in the region that Bhimtal was partly dry is drove past it.
We stayed over
night. The room I stayed was named Dharma. ITBP 14t Battalion was in
charge of this place. This was another well furnished room. These guest houses are made for transiting officers.
On the way to Munsiyari we stopped at a temple of Shri Golu Maharaj in Chitai. It is believed that wishes get fulfilled. The main area has a small inset of a figure in the wall. There is no statue as we generally found in temples. The most unique feature of the sacred place is that people tie brass bells and come to untie when their wish is fulfilled. People write their problems on plain paper and also on stamp paper seeking help. The area and passages are filled up with brass bells and bells of various sizes and weight. The bells costed Rs. 500/- per kilo. I did buy a book on this temple and why it is called Lord of Justice.
There was a dedicated section where weddings were solemnised. People find it very auspicious to be able to get married in this temple. There is so much of faith in this temple that can be made out from the thousands of brass bells of assorted sizes tied along with paper request/prayers to solve problems of the believers. There was one such wedding that I believe had got over very short while back.
18-05-2012
A very unique temple I can just say. I too had a brass bell tied to bring me luck from the troubles I was going through those days.
18-05-2012
On 18th I got up
at 05:00 hours as we planned to drive to Munsiari as early as
possible after breakfast. Munsiyari is about 125 kms from Pithoragarh.
By 07:00 hours we started for Munsiyari, and reached around 12:45
hours.
The setup of the camp was again great that over looked the valley giving a clear view of the snow peaked mountain range. The room windows faced the Punchachuli range of snow covered mountains. The weather was not clear remained foggy all through the way. There was heavy rainfall for rest of the day and night. Since it had got cold I took out the jacket of my nephew from Vienna that my wife had packed without bothering to take out the ones I used to wear. When I put it on I was shocked I could not fit into it. Being peak summer time I could not find me a monkey cap and gloves in Delhi.
We were introduced to Mr. Kundan Singh ITBP contractor of mules transportation of goods to remote border posts. So he helped me buy the warm clothing much expensive than Delhi it was but natural to be expensive.
The setup of the camp was again great that over looked the valley giving a clear view of the snow peaked mountain range. The room windows faced the Punchachuli range of snow covered mountains. The weather was not clear remained foggy all through the way. There was heavy rainfall for rest of the day and night. Since it had got cold I took out the jacket of my nephew from Vienna that my wife had packed without bothering to take out the ones I used to wear. When I put it on I was shocked I could not fit into it. Being peak summer time I could not find me a monkey cap and gloves in Delhi.
We were introduced to Mr. Kundan Singh ITBP contractor of mules transportation of goods to remote border posts. So he helped me buy the warm clothing much expensive than Delhi it was but natural to be expensive.
19-05-2012
We had to really start for the trek as early as possible to make the
best use of day light to cover the distances between ITBP posts where all
arrangements over night boarding and lodging had been planned. This area has good wild life like bears and panthers.
The weather a day
before was wet and was slightly cool. This coolness was there in the
morning but no rains. Surely rains would have been very bad. With the
possibility of it being cold at any given distance I put on the warm
inners, full sleeves sweater and the jacket. There was excitement as
I was formally going for a trek for the first time in last 30 to 40
years. During the school time in Mussoorie, we managed to go long
distances in very short times, but today it was not a body a of young
youth but a body of a 60 plus years guy.
Fortunately we had a nice sunny morning though far off it was not very clear. I had a dummy run of a possible panorama shot hoping for a clear day with blue skies on return from the trek to shoot the huge Panchachuli range. I did take a few images.
Since I was up before sunrise I was looking for the first rays hitting it basically looking at the golden hour ambience, which to my great disappointment there was no trace of it. The sky was not very clear so view of Panchachuli mountain range with snow peaks was not very clear. I was not aware that the fires are set up by people or pine dry needles catch fire through out the dry season of summers and clear blue sky is hard to find during this period.
Since I was up before sunrise I was looking for the first rays hitting it basically looking at the golden hour ambience, which to my great disappointment there was no trace of it. The sky was not very clear so view of Panchachuli mountain range with snow peaks was not very clear. I was not aware that the fires are set up by people or pine dry needles catch fire through out the dry season of summers and clear blue sky is hard to find during this period.
Around 07:00
hours we had our breakfast. It was more like a lunch with dal,
vegetables and roti. I have never had such a breakfast in my life, but understand we had
to since there would
be nothing available on the way till the first stop Lillum Post.
Mr. Kundan Singh already there before we sat down for breakfast with his Mahindra Xylo and our luggage was packed in the back of the vehicle. We had a few group photographs before leaving. Mr. Harish (Havaldar)
was assigned to accompany us till Milam and back to Munsiari.
He was also conversant with the route, as we were informed.
Mr. Kundan Singh
drove us to the last point a vehicle could reach. The road was under construction beyond this point. Two of his porters were waiting and they arranged our stuff to be tied to carry on their backs. Besides our luggage there were provisions for the posts. There were 2 carton boxes, one
contained 4 chickens and another I believe had some bedsheets and
towels. These two cartons were creating some problem as these could
not be tied along with rest of our bags. I had bought me a rucksack
and a sleeping bag. The straps on top of the rucksack were too short
to tie the sleeping bag. How people save on little lengths but create
problems for their clients. I had hung it around to where it was
better but this also created problems in properly tying up to be carried by the porters. When every thing looked fine we started climbing down
the hill. The porters and pony were all organised by Mr. Kundan as he
has a team, it is his main job as a contractor to transport goods
for the ITBP's various out posts on the border.
Climbing down
was not very easy with steep rocky steps and to top it wet leaves from the heavy rains. A nice combination to make
one slip quite a distance on one's back. The foliage very was dense.
I picked a up branch that looked good enough to be used as a walking
stick. I plucked out small branches as best as possible to make it smooth. Though a was a bit
heavy but it was a good support. We reached down to the mountain
river, where a pony was waiting as one was arranged in case required to ride. Again there was some re-organisation
of the back pack of the porters. The sun was out and it had become quite warm. I removed my jacket as it was
hot for it. Because of my silliness I was clothed for Greenland and removing my jacket did not help much. There was a small make shift bridge made of logs,
branches, a net and some gravel put on it on a point where the river had least water. I would say it was about 8 to 10 paces in
length.
Somehow I
started feeling a little uncomfortable as we walked. I am sure
the Innova seats discomfort must have been showing up with my body
getting stiff. I had heavy breathing as I was climbing down, not very natural. All this made me feel that I will not be able to make it the
whole way, even if I did I would be massively slow, very slow. When
such feelings start sizzling in the mind, the courage gets lost. It
was happening to me, so very unfortunate.
As we walked the
route went up and down, quite normal for mountains. There were areas
where landslides had taken place, the path was very narrow and dangerous. We
had to be very careful as a fall would be a smooth one till the base of
the fast flowing river. There were areas where it was rough because
of the ongoing road construction project where they push all the
earth and stones down wards.
The extra inner woollen clothing was also responsible for my discomfort. In the hindsight I feel I should have taken off the warm
inners, that perhaps would have made me comfortable and relaxed. At many places I
felt I should calm down my nerves by making some distance sitting on
the pony, but whenever I spoke to the pony owner he said it was not
a safe path riding the pony. If the path was not good enough for the
pony riding someone could have suggested so and we could made some savings. I got a chance to ride the pony for hardly a furlong or so. The guy was
holding the reins about 7 to 8 feet long rope away from the pony. At a turning there was a difference in the stone path and its side. The pony got down to the lower part of the path bringing my face into a thorny bush. I tried saving myself and fell down. Pony not being of good height my feet were nearly touching the ground so no big damage was done to me. I was of course thoroughly shaken up. Lucky it was not on the downside of the mountain as I would have landed deep down in the river.
My camera hung from my shoulders, lucky no damage to me and my camera. Mr. Harish who was walking close to me was quickly by my side helping me to get and stabilise myself. Also he took care that the hooves of the pony may not hurt me in this mix up. He did give his mind to the pony guy for being extremely careless. Well that was the last I sat on the pony. This side of Uttara Khund there is no pilgrimage points so there is hardly any pony for people. These ponies are used for transporting goods. Pony guys as a habit walk at a distance or even not hold the reins of the pony.
My camera hung from my shoulders, lucky no damage to me and my camera. Mr. Harish who was walking close to me was quickly by my side helping me to get and stabilise myself. Also he took care that the hooves of the pony may not hurt me in this mix up. He did give his mind to the pony guy for being extremely careless. Well that was the last I sat on the pony. This side of Uttara Khund there is no pilgrimage points so there is hardly any pony for people. These ponies are used for transporting goods. Pony guys as a habit walk at a distance or even not hold the reins of the pony.
There was an
internal shake in the body that was good enough to trigger some back
ache, not severe but I did feel I may not remain comfortable
for long. My worst fear was not to get that slip disc I suffer for
quite frequently. If that would have happened I am sure none of us
would know how to tackle the situation. How would I be carried back
to the point where a vehicle could come and how would I walk all the distance back.
Then that steep climb would be a nightmare. All these thoughts were
engrossing my mind. I stopped seeing pictures to capture with my
camera. Something I came specially for, I could not see frames that was
really unfortunate. For me the whole trip seemed to go down the drain.
Did I
miscalculate my endurance strength?
After this fall I
was looking forward to reaching the ITBP camp, but it looked very far from there. People who live and cover distances on a
regular basis feel the distance is not much, the path is quite
comfortable. Each time I asked Mr. Harish he would just say we are
there. I am sure a quick walker like him was boringly tied with a
person like me who was slow.
We reached a
point where a team from Lillam post awaited us with tea and
biscuits. I asked others to walk ahead and continue further as I was
sure I will not be able to make it to complete the whole route of the
trek. My slowness would also compromise on the planned trek. Momin
stayed back with me and we walked leisurely and he always telling me
take small steps as the legs do not get over stretched bringing
discomfort. Habits die hard, the moment I took a long stride he would
point it out. I am not sure what scenics were there, real pity all
this discomfort took over my sensibilities and saw no frames. I
do not remember any thing. I had handed my camera to Mr. Harish for safety sake.
Just a few paces we reached this hub I got one of
my life's worst cramps. I do get cramps in one or the other legs or
feet now and then when sleeping or walking bare feet in water, but
nothing like this cramp I have ever had in my life before. Both my legs thighs and toes cramped up. Nerves in both my thighs pained as if
some one was pulling them out. I started feeling some numbness in my
lower back. I could not stand up despite Momin helping me stay up. He
called up the guys sitting upstairs to give a hand to support me. Somehow with their help I
managed to reach up the area of the hub. People cleared the bench
for me to lie down. Someone brought some balm on a piece of paper, later got to know he was the postmaster. I took off the sweater, shirt and
the inner full sleeves vest. All my clothes had gone wet from heavy sweating. Some balm was rubbed on my back, the legs, feet and toes. One could see the fingers stiff and looked de-shaped from
cramps. I am sure I must have there for a good hour. I had already asked my
friend to continue further as I would not be able to make it further. I did
not want his trip wasted because of me. I had to take rest to revive myself from the cramps.
Then someone gave me a light weight bamboo walking stick, telling me the one I
had was heavy and it was not good. Later I came to know he was
the shop owner fondly called 'Chachu' (Uncle). The hub was owned by him. This place had a hotel (two hardboard beds with straws), dhaba, Chachu's well stocked store, Post Office, Ration Shop, Government Doctor (Homeopathy) & residence of a headmaster.
The hotel owner
brought some lemon with salt in warm water to help me regain from dehydration. When I felt comfortable I
sat down relaxed my legs by with some exercise. I had taken off the
woollen socks. There is no doubt I was over clothed and had invited the
cramps on very warm day. We started for the camp that
was quite a distance up, it
looked like it was still miles away. Prompts of small steps, stopping
after small distances made me cover the distance to the post. First
thing I did in the room was to reduce the clothing. The bags had
already reached the camp much ahead, so took out Voilini ointment to apply on the effected portions. I also took a pain killer
tablet to help me relax. I lay down and rested a while. I realised
that my camera was not there, as I had requested Mr. Harish to carry
it for me lest due to any fall I damage it. There were no phone signals. They had a good one hour start, so I could
also not request someone to get it back for me. The CO of the post
Mr. Shyam Singh Negi (Havaldar) sent a message to the next post to arrange to send back my camera. My fears of it getting damaged in case of rains or mishandling more than losing it. I knew it was secure.
My friend did
notice Mr. Harish carrying it but did not realise it was mine as
today owning a good camera is not difficult for those who are
passionate about photography. Since Jha ji was out with camera for first time thought Mr. Harish could be of help in guiding with photography. The message was already there to send back the camera. He told Mr. Harish that he should not have carried it with
him, should have left it behind with my luggage. But I am sure with the confusion there may have been an error of judgement. Two days later I got
my camera back. There is a regular to and fro movement of porters. It was
shocking to see the filter on the lens full of finger prints. It is
good people are suggested to have a filter on the lens firstly
to cut ultra violet content of light additionally helping save the lens and
its coating from getting damaged. Filters are cheap and can be
replaced, but a damaged lens can hurt the pocket pretty very
hard. My first response was check functioning of the camera. I did a few quick shots to see if things were fine. The next
day I saw body paint damage luckily no dents. There were a few scratch marks
on the glass screen. My camera resale value got depleted. I curse myself
why I gave it at all to him? I can just have to maintain my equilibrium by realising
what was to happen it happened that none can avoid.
At Lillam post we
had plans for lunch and then to proceed further. My friend and his team
had their lunch that was ready to continue to next post before it got dark. The post was manned by 4 personals. Advance notice is given in case someone is visiting as food is prepared enough for the staff at the post. There is just one room for officers or guests. There
is a hall that could accommodate quite a number of people. This being
a transit post besides a check post to record permits issued to
tourists helping to keep track of outside people visiting the
border region.
Momin was kind
enough to rub ointment on my back where my hands could not reach. He
would come very often asking about my welfare. It was like my care
was deputed to him by the CO. All the personals were very warm and
looked after me in a big way. Someone or the other would come up to
chat lest I felt lonely. I did walk around, sit with them and stay in
the room. I feel greatly obliged by their warmth and helping me get back to walking comfortably.
It did rain quite
a few times, even during the nights.
My friend did not
reach the next post of Bogdiar. Later came to know the guide made him
stop at a hotel still quite away from the post. Surely he would not
have made it to the post that evening, but he misinformed that after
this there was no other place to stay for the night. There was one
more, having stayed there would have saved a lot of time. This area
has its share of wild animals like leopards (even snow leopards),
bears, panthers, besides deer, etc.
20-05-2012
I was careful all
the day not straining at all. I would rub ointment every two to three
hours to help me relax. The pain was still there in full strength but
cramps did not happen again. It takes time for the pain to subside
after a bout of cramps.
There were some
people who stayed over night. One was an IIT Geology research student
Mr. Nirmalo Chatterjee along with his assistant. He had plans to
stay at his destination point for a longer duration. It was quite
nice to have chatted for long as there was nothing else to do.
The mobile
signals are pretty bad in border regions. After my trip to Ladhak
where Vodafone connection outside Leh was zero and BSNL worked in
very large areas, I thought of taking a pre-paid BSNL connection to
remain in touch in case Vodafone could not be used. This side I got
to know Idea has better connectivity than BSNL. Quite confusing which company mobile connection to have in these remote areas?
The signals in
both carriers fluctuated massively. There were certain spots where
there was signal strength but even here it used to fade out. The
phone batteries got exhausted pretty fast as searching for the signal
drained its powers.
It is difficult
to take a break from everything after being so used to
connectivity.The peace at a remote place away from hectic life of a
city is always pleasing for a short time only. With nothing to do
like reading, walking out for photography it gets boring after a
while. How long can one sleep or lie in bed? How long can one sit
around doing nothing? True if there is some activity, the time passes
with out any hassles and staying away in a remote place is really
good.
I had about 5
missed calls from an international number. It was an unknown number,
tried to call back but could not go through. Memory loss!! I am not
sure if I called again at night or got a call, any way its not a big
issue unless the charges add to my phone bill but again not a big
issue. I do have a habit of returning the calls irrespective of costs
involved.
It was Nivedita a
photography student who had contacted me long time back asking me for my advise. I try to help people to the best of my knowledge in as simple a way
as possible never trying to discourage the newbee. She informed she
was in Germany doing internship with a photographer and he has not
been appreciative of her street photography results. She feels some
very ordinary work of other intern was well accepted by him. Well
there is always a cultural difference. The kind of work liked in
India is very different. The work has to be very sharp as we see but
anything creative than that is hardly appreciative. Here it is more
colour, very saturated colours are liked. In the continent there is
still a strong liking for Black & White work and the content or story of the image is important. So had to guide her
to look up the work of other photographers, understand and to really
relearn her way of seeing things as per them. But surely with everything
new to her she would still seeing a lot differently and capturing than them. That she should work more in Black & White. I
had requested her to share her work so that better inputs can be
given to the best of my knowledge. Each country each region will
surely have visual differences when given a common object to
photograph. There would be different results specially in use of
light and its recording as a result.
21-05-2012
Another similar
day as the previous one with nothing exciting. The post is quite low
down the mountains though it is 1716 meters from sea level. A little
portion of snow clad mountain was visible behind the opposite hills
of the camp. Always looked for some colors during the golden hours,
but as the luck would be I never got to see it till the day I was
there. As usual an early morning where Momin would come knocking the
door for tea.
A day before they
all enquired if drink and eat non-veg, to which I said just a
casually drinker but do take non-veg. I did not take on Tuesdays.
Then in the morning he announced they would be cooking chicken. I
told him let it live. One had died a day before I think. I was told
there is a cat that would eat it off, so before it became its meal.
The chicken spent a lot of time in my room. I too felt bad I rarely
eaten one slaughtered fresh.
In the after noon
I took my chances to take a walk to see how I felt walking up. They
suggested to walk up to a hotel/dhaba not very far that was also a
comfortable distance to climb. I did make it very comfortably a very
satisfying feeling on reaching there. There was a fall some distance
further did not take my chances. Also it was a bit cloudy and
possibility of rain was quite there. It had been raining since my
arrival here in spells. Rushing for cover, there was hardly any
cover, was not possible and taking chances with the camera getting
wet was also not very prudent.
Rest of the guys
went down to start with the procedure with the chicken for the meal.
On reaching back they were in the process of cleaning. The
preparation was good and tasty. Some portions they cooked as a snack
and rest with little curry. What ever quantity of rum the CO had he
served. It was a nice evening and dinner.
22-05-2012
Today I got up at
06:00 hours in the morning. I was feeling a slight twitch in right
side of the back. They boiled some water on hearth out side for me to
take a bath. It was very relaxing after the bath. They have a solar
geyser that required re-plumbing after connections were to release
sand that had settled down. The water source is a natural source
where some residue is always there. It needs to be syphoned off after
a certain period.
There seems to be
a tiff between the villagers and the staff at the post. It is more a
misunderstanding. To charge mobiles they come down as there is no
electricity. There are times when the inverter does not have enough
charge or no charge. But these villagers think the staff does it on
purpose. Out door lighting all had solar panels, but most had their
batteries dead, so none were working. The villagers would plug their
pipe line to block water. These guys would have to go up all the way
to unplug the pipes.
During these days
there was a change of guard in the various posts. Fresh people were
replacing the old ones whose tenure was over. These are non family
posts where they are totally cut off from the rest of the world.
There are no mobile signals, no electricity and provisions are
supplied on routine basis with no great choice. Distances between the
posts is quite a lot and all on foot. Medical attention is bare
minimum. At least I can say about till Lillam, the maximum I could
reach.
I had a pleasure
to meet ACO Mr. Abhishek Suhkla who was returning from the front
post. He stopped for lunch and rest before proceeding further to
Munsiari. He was away from all for the last 6 months. The mobile got
activated, and it was quite a relief getting connected again. I am
sure they may have some provisions of connecting to family besides
the normal internal system of the force. He was accompanied by Mr.
Negi (Havildar), well for the day we had two Negi in the camp with
the same rank. Another Havildar Mr. Kamlesh had arrived to relieve
Mr. Shyam Singh Negi.
A few hours after
ACO left for Munsiari, I along with Momin and Mr. Negi left to go
down to the hub of activity. This is one of the only well established
place for provisions for villagers far and wide even village
population across the river . This hub consists of a Dhaba, a place
to stay where wooden beds create a platform having some dry grass
cover with not so clean bed sheets/cloth, a well stocked shop, Post
Office of Lillam, government ration shop, a homeopathy dispensary on
a floor above it, 2 to 3 rooms. One served as a room for the
headmaster/principal of a intermediate school/college on the hill
across the river. I trust the owner of the shop also stays there.
This place is again a relaxing point for people going further towards
Milam side.
Today it was a
ration day when villagers had come to buy their ration. The place was
very active with ladies from the villages. It was all ladies and no
men who had come to buy the ration. These ladies are very hard
working and can carry quite a weight.
I sat down on the
bench there taking some photographs of the activity, portraits of
people busy with their buying of provisions. There was a quiet shy
gentleman sitting on the bench who was surely not a local. People
were talking to him for medical problems. I asked him if he was a
doctor. We chatted for quite a while. I got to know his clinic was
above the shop, so I was interested to see his place of work. We went
up to his place. It was a very smallish room, an all-in-one room. A
cupboard as we enter on the left, on the right was a bed where at its
end he had his personal stuff steeped on the floor, beside the cup
board was his working desk, near the window there was some small
table or box that again had lots of bottles of medicine. The ceiling
had some Rexene but it did not cover it fully. Nearly half of the
ceiling was bare. The light had got quite low outside for me to take
photographs. Still I am gripped in the old photography school
avoiding to use higher ISOs then 400 ISO despite the digital camera
having ISOs to 3200 or more. I still fear the noise that comes loaded
with higher ISOs. I asked if I could come again to shoot some
pictures of his dispensary.
He himself is a
keen photographer owning a Nikon camera with assorted lenses some
good enough for birds and wild life. He had brought along with him on
his very posting. Every one surely expects some basic amenities in
government accommodations, but here there was none. It seems to be a
punishment posting. A dispensary of good 20 plus years does have zero
facilities and amenities for a qualified homeopathy doctor. He had to
leave it back home as there being no electricity, he could not charge
the batteries. He could not use a lap top again for the same reasons.
He brought along a solar lamp that he used for charging his mobile
phone.
The BJP
government had had brought some service rules where a tenure was
fixed for 2 years. The remotely placed staff would be replaced by
those from the city. The Congress government changed it all. They
replaced it with a lose system. Now he can not expected to posted to
another family kind posting. We know ugly face of corruption that is
haunting each and one of the citizens of India except those who are
well connected. We also know there is lots of money involved in
recruitments and choice postings. Its a reality that judiciary may
not accept unless proved. How can a well oiled system ever make it
possible to get a proof.
He said even if
he resorts to make payment to get posted out to some habitable city,
and any one being posted is able to pay more to avoid the posting
then his money is also lost. It is a sad situation. Surely there are
places where the government can not provide but at least the basics
can be provided to make life easier. This is why the Maoist are
getting a hold in remote areas where the population has been deprived
of basic amenities by way of proper food supplies, vegetables, proper
educational and medical facilities, etc.
He also mentioned
that in extreme emergencies like pains etc. he can not even suggest
any allopathy medicines even the common ones. Homeopathy does take
time to take effect and many come here for pains in the legs or feet.
There was a villager sitting there who had some pain in his head and
was requesting me to organise medicine for his chronic pain. How
could I get any medicines knowing what his problem was, if he had
some medicines prescribed by a doctor surely I could buy and post the
same for his use. It is a pathetic situation for this remote
population. Why can not a allopathy doctor be posted there? Why can
not a small medical center be opened along with homeopathy medicines
as well? Why everything is centred in the capital of the country or
state? This a kind of de-alienation of a population.
There were no
fresh vegetables available even in the shop that I feel was well
stocked. The camp people did have small patches where they sowed some
vegetables. There was a wild plant that they collected to cook as
vegetable. I was informed eating it in cold weather it did generate
warmth. It is a single stem plant. The harder part of the stem is cut
away, rest is cut as per ones choice and cooked. It has no peculiar
strong taste that can be of any mention.
Ha ha I have to come back to add after finding my jotted notes.
One thing I vividly remember that on our return all the way we went through thick smoke, pieces of rocks flying, huge trees falling over roads due to man made fire to burn out weeds or natural fire because of dry leaves. Some say people there to increase their cultivable land they burn fires. We were lucky to have pass through without obstructions though a few rocks did hit the car roof.
There were snow clad mountain ranges we could see in far distance, but it was really sad that the pristine beauty of the place could not be recorded due to the smoke/smog. What a pity it was to be there during this summer period but the glacier is accessible during summers only.
Will be adding more... please watch this space
Will be adding more... please watch this space
23-05-2012
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28-05-2012
